A bus park at six in the morning
Why the bus leaves when it is full, not when it is late.
October 31, 2026 · 9 min
Crossing a border at night
What I carry in my hand, and what stays in the bag.
Letters from the Road
A short letter every Saturday from a bus, a ferry or a guesthouse: one route, one thing to pack and one thing to know before the border.
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Kampala
Lake Victoria
The lake ferry at dawn
Trucks first, people after, and a seat by the rail.