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The road so far

Every stop, newest first

Each letter is one stretch of the road: a bus park, a border, a ferry or a seat by the window.

Kampala
A bus park at six in the morning
Why the bus leaves when it is full, not when it is late.
Nov 7, 2026 · 8 min read
A border post
Crossing a border at night
What I carry in my hand, and what stays in the bag.
Oct 31, 2026 · 9 min read
Lake Victoria
The lake ferry at dawn
Trucks first, people after, and a seat by the rail.
Oct 24, 2026 · 10 min read
On the road
Mangoes at a window stop
What to buy through a bus window, and how to eat it.
Oct 17, 2026 · 6 min read
On the bus
What to carry in a small day bag
The few things that stay on my knees all day.
Oct 10, 2026 · 7 min read
A guesthouse
Reading a route on a paper map
How I plan a day of changes before I leave the guesthouse.
Oct 3, 2026 · 9 min read
Western Uganda
The long red road to the lake
Eleven hours on one road, and what I did with them.
Sep 26, 2026 · 11 min read
On the bus
Writing a letter on a moving bus
A notebook, a window seat and a steady hand.
Sep 19, 2026 · 6 min read
Jinja
Changing minibuses in a strange town
Where to stand, who to ask and when to wait.
Sep 12, 2026 · 8 min read
On the road
Why I sit near the front on long roads
The seat that is safest, and the view that is best.
Sep 5, 2026 · 7 min read

Every Saturday

A short letter every Saturday from a bus, a ferry or a guesthouse: one route, one thing to pack and one thing to know before the border.

“The one email I open the day it lands.”

A reader