
The long red road to the lake
Eleven hours on one road, and what I did with them.

September 19, 2026 · 6 min
A notebook, a window seat and a steady hand.
A short letter every Saturday from a bus, a ferry or a guesthouse: one route, one thing to pack and one thing to know before the border.
the road
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Western Uganda

Eleven hours on one road, and what I did with them.
Jinja

Where to stand, who to ask and when to wait.