The lake ferry at dawn
Trucks first, people after, and a seat by the rail.
October 17, 2026 · 6 min
Mangoes at a window stop
What to buy through a bus window, and how to eat it.
Letters from the Road
A short letter every Saturday from a bus, a ferry or a guesthouse: one route, one thing to pack and one thing to know before the border.
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Lake Victoria
On the bus
What to carry in a small day bag
The few things that stay on my knees all day.